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There are two types of people in this world: pear people and apple people. (Editor's note: Perhaps if you're a Harry & David customer, you'll take a bite of both!) But, surely, the residents of Angers, France, are pear, or poire, people. Why? Because this city, located about 180 miles southwest of Paris, is the birthplace of the Doyenné du Comice pear — of which our most prized Royal Riviera is a direct descendent. Considered the best pear in the world, this always-green, stout, and firm (but not crunchy) crop dates back to 1849, when, after being cultivated in the garden of Angers' Museum of Fine Arts, it first bore fruit.
Today, other varieties are pollinated from the Comice, too, such as the Angelise and Southern Oregon's Royal Riviera. The French Comice is harvested in early September, after about a five-month growth period. Given its complicated growing process — including trunks that grow on a slant, stems that proliferate quickly but don't germinate fruit until a year or two after sprouting, and unpredictable and variable yields — these pears are, not surprisingly, one of the best to eat cru, or raw. Still, you'll see them start to appear on the menus of seasonal French restaurants — and, certainly, in les marchés, or markets — in late fall and early winter, the same time when the Royal Riviera Pears ship across the United States.
While visiting an orchard isn't a pastime in France like it is in America, there's still plenty to see and do in the city of Angers itself. On y va! Here we go!
Stay
Eat
Envol
Hopefully you're lucky enough to snag one of the nine tables on the courtyard terrace of this restaurant. Chef Philippe Coco has only been at the helm since 2021, but his gastronomic menu of dishes, such as spirulina topped sea bass, is quite memorable. Choose from a variety of tasting options — three, five, six, and eight courses for $45, $55, $66, and $76, respectively — served with flair and opulence, including focaccia hidden inside a mini box, and a dry ice bubble atop lobster with peaches and rosemary that "smokes" when popped. Their wine menu is heavy on the local options, such as crisp, dry chenins from Château de la Viaudière.
Drink
Do
Le Pont de Verdun
Five bridges connect the right and left banks of the Maine River, which are also France's shortest. This bridge, however, was the city's oldest until it was reconstructed in the 19th century following the first World War. It's a beauty by day, with blooming flower baskets on each side and nearby viewing platforms from which to admire them, but even more spectacular at night, when the arches are lit up.
Le Jardin du Musée des Beaux-Arts
Today, some 173 years after first being planted, a plaque honors the humble poire in the garden of the fine arts museum. It's a lovely place to pause for a moment or, come summertime, see free concerts as part of the Tempo Rives music festival. It also provides quick access to Le Repaire Urbain, or RU, a new cultural venue that opened in 2020 dedicated to contemporary art.
On Wednesdays and Saturdays, this is where you'll find locals, chefs, and visitors alike, scouring the stalls for seasonal fruits and vegetables, as well as top-notch meat, fish, and cheese. Bring a panier, basket, or tote, and shop for whatever suits your fancy from 8 a.m. to 1 p.m.
Shop
To book your trip to Angers, France, visit https://www.tourisme.destination-angers.com/
AUTHOR
Sara Lieberman is a New York-born, Paris-based travel and lifestyle journalist whose writing appears in AFAR, Travel & Leisure, Condé Nast Traveler, Hemispheres and more. When she’s not exploring a new destination or practicing yoga, she’s eating, thinking about eating, or helping others eat via her pop-up street food biz Cup o’ Cockles or her Paris concierge service, Overthink Paris.